After the cleaning from your Santa Clara County air duct cleaning company, whether in Mountain View, San Jose, Milpitas, Santa Clara, or Sunnyvale, visually inspect the heating/cooling system. Look for dust or particles. A good air duct cleaning company will frequently lend you the same tools they use to inspect, so that you can see the job is well done. Make sure there are no rip or tears in the fiberglass if your ducts include fiberglass board, flexduct, or metal pipes lined with fiberglass. Mold should be cleaned from metal pipes, and fiberglass material that had mold should be replaced.

Check every component of the system. These include the registers, the plenums, the blower motor, and the evaporator coil. Ask the air duct cleaning company if each component on your list has been cleaned, and ask for explanations if they have not. Shine a flashlight on the evaporator coil. You should see the light shine through to the other side if the coil is clean. If the air duct cleaner had to make any access openings, make sure they are proper sealed. Test that the system works after the cleaning – in both heating and cooling modes, if you have both.

Your main goal is to ensure that the entire system is cleaned, not just some ducts. You may have prepared your personal checklist of the pieces to be cleaned. Try to get this checklist as part of the invoice. If not, go through the checklist to make sure all the pieces of the system were cleaned as you anticipated.

Be sure to ask your air duct cleaning company about warranties. Many provide services with a guarantee of customer satisfaction. Ask what the warranty covers and what the process is for making a claim against the warranty. Ask about the procedure for compensation if the heating/cooling system is damaged during cleaning.

Air duct cleaning should be performed by professionals ready to do the full job. You need to make sure that all the components of your heating and cooling system are cleaned properly. These are not really separate service requests, but points that should be covered by any proper air duct cleaning service as part of the standard air duct cleaning.

Clean and Reset System Components
There are supply registers, return air grilles, and diffusers that are spread throughout your house as part of the heating and cooling system. These should all be removed, cleaned, and returned to their places during the air duct cleaning.

Clean Plenums
The plenums are boxes that attach the devices that heat or cool the air to the rest of the ductwork that spreads through the house. Both the return and supply air plenums need to be cleaned, and you should make sure the supply plenum in particular does not have moisture built up.

Seal Access Panels
Sometimes, your air duct cleaning professional will need to cut access panels

to get at parts of the system to cool it. You should make sure the access panels are properly sealed after the cleaning.

Heat Exchanger Cleaning
Both the air-stream side of the heat exchanger and the secondary heat exchanger must be cleaned.

Remove, Clean, and Reinstall
The blower motor should be removed and cleaned, along with its housing and assembly. The blades must not have oil or other dust, nor should the blower compartment as a whole.

Clean Evaporator
The evaporator coil, pan, and drain must be cleaned. You should be able to point a flashlight at the coil and have the light shine through. If not, the coil is not clean.

Replace Air Filter
During air duct cleaning services, all dirty air filters should be removed. Their replacements should match the efficiency rating recommended by the heating or cooling system’s manufacturer.

Wash the Air Cleaner
The air cleaner should also be washed as part of the air duct cleaning.

Clean Supply Ductwork
Make sure that the ductwork that send the air supply to the rooms in your house is cleaned during the air duct cleaning process.

Clean Return Ductwork
Check after the cleaning that the return ductwork, which sends air back to the heating or cooling device is clean.

When you want to know if your air ducts are going to be cleaned properly, you need to be able to discuss your system with your HVAC expert. Below are some terms that may help you be more comfortable with the conversation.

advanced reciprocating compressor
Kind of compressor used for improved efficiency when compression refrigerant for cooling.

air handler
In the heating and cooling systems for your house, the part that sends the air through the ductwork.

British thermal unit
Measure of heat. One BTU is roughly equivalent to the amount of heat that a wooden kitchen match gives off.

Also known as: BTU

annual fuel utilization efficiency
A rating on a furnace that indicates how efficiently the furnace uses fuel to make heat. Reported as a percentage. An AFUE of 90% indicates that 90% of fuel is producing heat, while 10% is leaving as exhaust due to combustion.

Also known as: AFUE

CFM
A measurement that shows the number of cubic feet of air that flow by a single point in sixty seconds. Higher numbers indicate greater air flow.

Also known as: cubic feet per minute

capacity
Refers to a system’s ability to affect a specified amount of space. Heating capacity is usually described in BTUs, while cooling capacity is usually described in tons.

carbon monoxide
A gas created by combusting carbon-based fuels when there is not sufficient air. It is highly dangerous, while being odorless.

compressor
A part of a heating or cooling system that determines how much pressure is put on the refrigerant. It is typically part of the outside unit.

condenser coil
The condenser coil is the part of a heating or cooling system that returns refrigerant from a gas to a liquid. Changing the state from gas to liquid extracts the heat. It is typically part of the outside unit.

DB
Unit of measurement for noise.

Also known as: dB, decibels

damper
A damper is part of duct work. It can open or shut to allow or cut off airflow.

downflow
Refers to a kind of furnace that moves cool air from the top and sends warm air to the bottom. Often used when a furnace is placed on the second floor.

ductwork
Pipes that send air from a system’s air handler to the vents located throughout the house.

Also known as: ducts
EER
A calculation that determines how efficient a device’s energy use is. The formula is to divide the device’s BTU by its wattage.

Also known as: energy efficiency ratings

electronic air cleaner
A kind of filter, it can remove large particles and contaminants from the air. For smaller particles, it magnetizes viruses, bacteria, and other tiny particles, then attracts them to a collection surface.

Also known as: EAC

energy saver switch
Makes an air conditioner’s fan and compressor switch on and off in sync, so that less energy is used.

Energy Star
A government program to label devices that offer better energy use than others in their category. This allows consumers to save on energy costs.

evaporator coil
Part of the indoor system for the heating or cooling system, it changes the state of the refrigerant from liquid to gas or vice versa, thus removing heat and humidity from the air.

Also known as: indoor coil

fan coil
A fan coil may be used instead of the furnace and evaporator coil. The fan coil is also an indoor part of the system, and it changes the state of the refrigerant from liquid to gas or vice versa to remove heat and humidity.

HEPA
A type of filter used to prevent particles from re-entering the surrounding space.

Also known as: high efficiency particle air

HSPF
Measurement used to describe how efficient a heat pump is. A higher number indicates more efficiency.

Also known as: heating seasonal performance factor

HVAC
The acronym for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning.

heat exchanger
A part of a furnace that moves heat to the surrounding air.

heat pump
A heat pump moves heat and cold in and out of the house. When used in cooling mode, it performs like an air conditioner to remove heat from the house. In heating mode, it uses heat from the outside to warm the house.

horizontal flow
A kind of furnace that takes air in one side and send it out warmer on the other side. Installed on its side, it is often the type used for attics or crawl spaces.

Also known as: horizontal heater

phantom load
The electricity that a device uses when it is plugged in and not turned on.

plenum
The plenum is sheet-metal box that allow more ductwork to connect to either the furnace outlet or the air handler outlet.

split system
A split system may be a heat pump or air conditioner. The components are installed in two locations, usually inside and outside.

two-stage compressor
A compressor that can operate at two different levels. When properly sized, the device operates 80% of the time at its low level, and 20% of its time at its high level. By operating at the lower level most of the time, the device improves efficiency and reduces humidity level and operational noise.

upflow
A furnace type. It pulls cool air in at the bottom and exhausts warmed air out the top. Often used in a basement installation.

ventilator
A device that gets heating or cooling energy from the indoors air and moves that energy to incoming air.

Q: Why Choose a Diamond Certified Air Duct Cleaner?

A: Diamond Certified helps you choose an air duct cleaner with confidence by offering a list of top rated local companies that have passed the country’s most in-depth rating process. Only air duct cleaners rated Highest in Quality and Helpful Expertise earn the prestigious Diamond Certified award. Most companies can’t pass the ratings. American Ratings Corporation also monitors every Diamond Certified company with ongoing research and ratings. And your purchase is backed by the Diamond Certified Performance Guarantee, so you’ll feel confident choosing a Diamond Certified air duct cleaner.

Q: Should I call this company that is offering a $99 per house special?

A: Companies that offer very low prices for the whole house should be avoided. The rate is simply a teaser, designed to get the unwary to sign up. The customer will then be hit with endless charges that drive the price up. You should know that in 1996, the EPA estimated air duct cleaning charges at between $450 and $1000. This will give you some idea of cost, though of course it is many years later.

Q: Does it matter whether the air duct cleaning company uses a truck-mounted or portable vacuum?

A: When the air duct cleaning is done according to NADCA standards, either a portable or a truck-mounted vacuum can perform adequately. While a truck-mounted vacuum is usually more powerful, a portable vacuum may be able to be brought closer to the job itself. For all portable and handheld vacuums that exhaust into the house, it’s important to be sure they use HEPA filters.

Q: Why does it matter what my ducts are made of?

A: Fiberglass is present in much of modern ductwork, whether in the shape of fiberglass duct board, fiberglass lining for ducts, or flexduct. Older ductwork may be bare sheet metal. The distinction is important for several reasons. First, cleaning is performed by using a brush or other tool to loosen particles, which are then vacuumed up. The bristles on the brush must be soft when used with fiberglass, so that the fiberglass is not damaged. The air duct cleaning company must also be careful about using other tools instead of brushes – blowguns, air whips, and the like may not be appropriate for use with fiberglass. Secondly, once fiberglass is damaged by mold or water, it is recommended to replace it, rather than trying to fix or remediate it.

Q: Why is there mold on my ductwork?

A: Mold typically comes from damp that is allowed to linger. Damp can be a problem with a heating/cooling system if the coil is not properly drained. The coil is at the heart of the system and it is where refrigerant is changed from liquid to gas or vice versa. Changing the state of the refrigerant can remove humidity and heat or can bring heat in. The liquid/gas conversation can have condensation as a by-product. This condensation must drain properly so that mold does not take hold. This is one major source of mold.

Q: My Santa Clara air duct cleaning company showed me mold from my duct. I never noticed it. Are they right?

A: Some air duct cleaning companies will claim that you have mold in your ducts. You should ask for proof. The company may put a petri dish or similar collection device into the duct and then give you the resulting substance as proof that mold is present. Actually, no one can tell if mold is present visually. You should take the substance to a lab and get it tested to be sure it is actually mold.

Q: My air duct cleaning company wants to put a sealant in my ducts. Should I let them?
A: First, ask what the sealant is designed to do. Some sealants are offered with the claim that they will reduce the movement of dust and particles in the ductwork. You should not accept these sealants. First, the sealant will probably be applied by being sprayed into the duct. You cannot guarantee that the sealant will cover the entire surface properly. Secondly, for ducts with fiberglass, the sealant may harm their ability to resist fire and provide better acoustics. The sealant might even void the fiberglass manufacturer’s warranty.

Other types of sealants, such as sealants to mend fiberglass or for fire resistance, might be appropriate for use. Ask what the purpose of the sealant is, how it will affect your warranties, and how you will know that it is working.

Q: My air duct cleaner wants to spray some anti-microbial chemicals in my ductwork. Is that OK?
A: You should approach the use of chemicals in your air ducts very carefully. Sometimes air duct cleaning companies recommend chemicals to fight bacteria or mold. First, you have to consider how you or family members might react to the chemical. Second, you should ask to see the chemical’s label. You should make sure the chemical is being used for one of the purposes identified on the label – otherwise it should not be used. You should also check how the label says the chemical should be applied. If the chemical cannot be applied as directed on the label, it should not be used. For example, if a water rinse is required, it cannot be used in ductwork because water should not be introduced. With caution, chemicals approved for it may be used on bare sheet metal surfaces.

There are no chemicals approved for use on fiberglass or flexduct, or any fiberglass material. If these materials have mold, they should be replaced.

Rather than using chemicals at all, you should search for the source of the problem and try to eliminate it. For example, mold can be eliminated if it is caused by poor condensation drainage if you fix the way the condensation is draining.

Q: What can I do to prolong the life of my cleaning?

A: Santa Clara County air duct cleaning companies estimate that a clean lasts three to seven years, depending on who lives in the house, heating/cooling usage, the local climate, and the like. Your best way to preserve a clean heating/cooling system is to prevent dirt and water from entering. Make sure the draining in the system is handled correctly. Change air filters annually (at the same time, it’s good to do carbon monoxide testing). Make sure that you are not missing filters, and that the filter holders do not allow air to pass around the filter. Vacuum the house regularly to prevent dirt build up. If you have a major renovation project in the house, seal off the registers and don’t run the system until you have cleaned up after the project. Make sure ducts are sealed and insulated unless they are in air conditioned spaces.

Q: I can see dust on the vents where air flows in my house. Do I need air duct cleaning?

A: You may see dust on the registers, or grilles, where air flows into and out of your heating/cooling system. This does not automatically mean that you should get your air ducts cleaned. You can easily vacuum the grilles clean, or other wise clean them. It is normal for the grilles to accumulate dust over time. Look for large buildups of dust in the vents themselves to determine if you need an air duct cleaning because of dust.